Showing posts with label Thailand - Ubon Ratchathani. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Thailand - Ubon Ratchathani. Show all posts

Monday, April 19, 2010

A retrospective of the Chalerm Sin - Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand

Over the past few weeks I've had the good fortune of corresponding with two American veterans, Gene Ponce and Randy Roberts, who where stationed in Thailand during the Vietnam/American War. Gene Ponce was an Engines and Propeller Systems technician, working on EC 121R Constellation Recon aircraft at the Korat air-base from 1970-71. From 1971-72 he was stationed at Ubon, where he worked on AC 130/E Spectre Gunships.

Randy Roberts was stationed at Ubon from 1969-1970, serving as an F4 Radar technician and Airman 1st Class.

Gene and Randy have each amassed collections of photos taken in Thailand by American soldiers based here during the war years. Among the images are a hand full of old theater depictions. The two veterans have very kindly given me permission to use them on the SEA Theater Project, where I'll be posting them over the course of the next few weeks.

The most well-documented of the theaters is the Chalerm Sin in downtown Ubon. Below are a series of shots depicting the old classic in it's various appearances though the years.

I have no date for when the Chalerm Sin was built, but I'm guessing it was no later than the 1950's. Noting location at the first major intersection into the city, with a public works fountain forming a traffic circle in front of it, there's a chance that it's from the era of Phibun Songkram, Thailand's fascist-leaning military dictator from 1938-1944 and again from 1948-1957. Prime Minister Phibun was a fan of public works projects and a few of the theaters I've come across during this research were commissioned by his government. Phibul project or not, the Chalerm Sin in it's original guise was a nice looking theater, with an angular, concave facade looking out from its street corner domain.

The above photo was taken by Warren Lieberman, a US Army engineer based in Warin Chamrap from 1965-66 (photo courtesy of Gene Ponce)

Color invigorates the above photo, as security policeman Edward F. Roberts poses in front of the Chalerm Sin Theater sometime in 1965-66. This and the photo above are the only two I've seen depicting the theater's original facade. Notice the free-standing sign letters were of a smaller make than they were later on. (Photo courtesy of Edward F. Roberts).

By the time the above photo was taken, some architectural adjustments had been made to the theater’s façade. Most strikingly, a beige and white, metal paneled exterior wall was added to shield the building from direct sun-light – a heat-reducing feature common on Thai buildings constructed in the 1960’s and 70’s. In some cases these fixtures visually enhance the structures they adorn, with horizontal and vertical lines criss-crossing in various patterns. In other instances they ruin a good looking building. As for the Chalerm Sin, I think it was a downgrade from the original look, but not too shabby, either. This photo was probably taken around 1967-68 judging by the movie playing – “The Way West” starring Kirk Douglas and Robert Mitchum. Though foreign made movies in Thailand didn't necessarily screen the same year they were made, so it could have been later. (Photo courtesy of Gene Ponce).

Here’s the Chalerm Sin in its next new look, in a photo taken by Jim Foanio, circa 1971. A new set of bigger, bolder free-standing letters have replaced the smaller ones. “70 mm Projection System,” is announced in the sign below the name. Since the advent of multiplex theaters in the 1980’s, 70mm movie projection has largely become a thing of the past, much like the larger stand-alone theaters that screened them. (Photo courtesy of Gene Ponce).

The following three photos were taken by Gene Ponce himself circa 1971-72.


I love this picture!

Happy New Year 1972

Randy remembers the Chalerm Sin Theater as follows:

"General seating was on the main floor. The balcony was a little pricier and mostly used by GIs, as I recall, with female companions. But the premier seating was in the enclosed air-conditioned room on the balcony. This had the original sound and dialogue. It may have had ear phones for the GIs and Thai piped in [over speakers], I can't recall. Regardless, this was the only place to hear the original English sound track. Otherwise, the mostly-Chinese films shown were subbed and dubbed. English language films were dubbed for the rest of the theater. Two voices, one male and one female, did it all. You appreciate what a terse language English is when the dialogue continues as John Wayne rides off on his horse, or the horse is pictured as one voice or another continues, or the faraway hills echo with several lines of dialogue between scenes. Not to mention the timing between two or more characters. That could be a blast in itself. Especially if you'd already seen the flick. Anyway, it was an interesting time. Always fun at the movies! Lots of Chinese/Oriental swash- buckling stuff. Dialogue was unnecessary for those movies. Thai subtitles, Chinese dialogue, or Thai dubbing. It was crazy for us GIs used to MGM!!!
Here's the Chalerm Sin Theater as it looks now. The building is home to a Bata shoe store and features none of its former architectural pomp. What a dull way to go out! (Both photos courtesy of Gene Ponce).

Sunday, March 21, 2010

The Det Udom Mini Theater - Det Udom, Ubon Ratchathani, Thailand

Just over 30 kilometers south of Ubon city lies the little country town of Det Udom. Geographically speaking, the town is pretty basic, consisting of one main street running perpendicular to a feeder highway which leads to the provincial capitol. Businesses on main street cater to the surrounding farming villages, because this, my friends, is rural Isan, where if you haven't moved to the big city for wage work, you're scratching out a living from the soil. Fortunately for the Det Udom townsfolk and villagers there are movies to be watched on a big screen when the work is done, thanks to the Det Udom Mini Theater.

Up the rainbow staircase to the auditorium

In past decades, country theaters like the Det Udom Mini could be found in nearly every district of Thailand. Even prior to the advent of rural electrification, small town entrepreneurs were prone to build movie theaters and project the coveted form of entertainment via power provided by a diesel generator. Areas deemed too poor or remote to support a permanent theater were serviced by the ubiquitous traveling cinema companies, which would set up open-air movie screenings and charge customers a small fee to get in. From what I've been told, most districts in Ubon Ratchathani watched their movies the open-air way. But the people of Det Udom have long been luxuriating in a theater of their own.

Theater A

Teenage ticket queue


Ticket seller

The Det Udom Mini Theater is actually fairly new, dating only the late 80's/early 90's - the last generation of stand-alone movie theaters to be built in Thailand. According to staff and locals, it replaced an old wooden theater that occupied its ground for years prior.

Designed with the future in mind, the Det Udom Mini has two auditoriums and two screens, allowing for double the viewing fare at the same time. But only theater "A" is used regularly.

Interior action


This truck rolls around town and the surrounding villages announcing the daily film fare. Now Showing: "Who are You?"

After the movie

I was able to catch a noon showing of "Who are You...," which would have been a recommendable movie had it not been for the screwy ending. Otherwise it was a strong attempt by the Thai film industry at psychological horror, a sub-genre which gets scant attention among local producers.

As for the attending crowd, of the roughly 20 attendees there were 3 adults - a reflection of movie-going demographics nationwide. When questioned about how business has been, the Det Udom Mini's caretaker said that the theater was covering its costs. "We're not exactly raking it in," he jibed, "but considering it's now the dry season, when lots of locals leave to take up seasonal work in the big cities, we're not doing bad. Business will get better come the rainy season when everybody returns home."

There are only a handful of country theaters still operating in Thailand. Most of them are in Isan.

Friday, March 19, 2010

The Ubon Pappayon Theater - Ubon Rachathani, Thailand


The blistering Isan sun is no match for a mild case of O.C.D. - and I've got the photos to prove it! Yes folks, this dispatch is coming to you as close to "live" as you're ever gonna get from me. I arrived here in Ubon Rachathani this morning, following an arduous, 1000k road trip which began in Chiang Mai on Monday. By half-past noon I had compulsively tracked down this beautiful movie theater in the heart of town. Aging, neglected and used as a warehouse, the Ubon Pappayon Theater retains an air of architectural dignity all the same.

Locals estimated the Ubon Pappayon to be between 60 and 70 years old. If this age is correct, it's possible that this is yet another movie theater built by the fascist government of Phibunsongkram - Thailand's more benign answer to Hirohito, Mussolini and Hitler. During Phibunsongkram's militaristic reign - which included the World War Two years - the state undertook numerous construction projects aimed at "modernizing" Thai society. State-sponsored buildings, with sleek, fascist-inspired architecture sprang up in strategic locations across the country (see Democracy Monument in Bangkok for the most obvious example). Being the penultimate method of propagation that film was (and is), attractive movie theaters were commissioned to spread the gospel in.

A shady frame

This old sam lor driver probably watched movies at the Ubol Pappayon years ago.

Monk and movie theater

Side doors and pillars

I'm no architectural historian, so I can't tell you the specifics of the Ubol Pappayon's design, but it does have a few similar characteristics of the two other Phibunsongkram-sponsored theater's I've come across in my travels - the New Chalerm Uthai Theater, in Uthai Thani and the Thahan Bok Theater, in Lopburi. Either way, this is an architecturally significant structure and it should be preserved.



The Ubol Pappayon Theater is now privately owned and used as a warehouse. I have no idea if it was built by Phibunsongkram's government or not.

It hasn't shown a film in twenty years.
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*UPDATE*

After further inquiry, including a trip to the Ubon National Museum, I've been told that the Ubon Pappayon was not built by the government. It was a private enterprise from the get go.