New year, new findings, new goodies

Seasons greetings, theaterphiles. I hope you all rang in the new year exactly as you wanted to. Maybe there was one or two of you out there who celebrated the new year with a trip to a stand-alone movie theater. Or maybe not.

2017 is shaping up to be a productive year for The Southeast Asia Movie Theater Project. I feel I can say that with an ounce of confidence. For one, Thailand is about to get its first full revival of a vintage stand-alone movie theater. If you ask me what that means I would say that the tide is changing for these classic structures after many years of steady attrition. Once this first one is on the record, we should start to see more money invested in old theaters as a means of bringing new life to old town cores. Mark my words! It will take some time, but if I know anything about Thailand, it's that once something is done to success it is quickly adopted elsewhere. Anyhow, more to come on that theater revival in due time.

Second, after many years spent pounding the pavements of Thai cities in search of that elusive movie theater form, I've finally got a book coming out. In fact, text and photos are due to be submitted to my publisher this month, so I had better get cracking. Once I have an exact release date and all the finer details I'll let you know. I can tell you, however, that this book is going to be exclusively on the movie theaters of Thailand. Myanmar, Laos and elsewhere in the region will get their own books later.

Third, later in the year I'm going to be working with a Thai filmmaker on a documentary about this project. The past two weeks were spent gathering preliminary footage, which will be edited into a teaser in the coming weeks. The rest of the filming will take place later in the years. Do stay tuned for that!

But before all else, I'm going to be making another survey of Myanmar's historic movie theaters this upcoming February. Last year's trip yielded some exciting new finds and was capped off by an exhibition at Yangon's pioneering Myanmar Deitta photography gallery.  Above all, however, the trip opened my eyes to the full extent of Myanmar's vintage movie theaters, and that there are still many in seldom seen towns that need to be documented. A few of them are still in operation.

If you want to pitch in and help draw attention to Myanmar's enigmatic cinema halls, here's your chance. To help offset the cost of this trip, I'm selling a couple of photos and a t-shirt.

The two photographs below were both taken during last year's survey. I'm printing a limited run of 25 each at 14x20 inches. Each photo, signed and numbered, is $70 including shipping. Have a look at them below:

The auditorium of Yangon's Thamada Cinema. Without a doubt, Myanmar's grandest and most luxurious active movie there. At 1,024 seats it's also probably the largest. This photo captures the Thamada's essence in an almost science fiction manner.

The Aung Theit Hti Cinema in the city of Myaungmya, Irrawaddy Region. Although closed for the past 20 years, and allegedly inhabited by an enormous cobra, this humble mid-century movie theater makes for an interesting backdrop to a street side tea shop. Every evening people gather in its shadow to chat over cups of hot tea.

To purchase a photo, please send me an email at: sea.theater(at)hotmail.com


The T-shirt is the result of a recent trip to Bangkok's dilapidated Prince Theater. While rummaging through a pile of debris in a corner of the theater, I came across this flyer advertising a Kung Fu movie from 1969. On the flyer was the theater's classic 1960's logo, which I have had printed onto a bunch of T-shirts. Each shirt is $15 or 3 shirts for $38. Free shipping within Thailand. For shipping outside of Thailand there's an additional $10 fee.

Old flyer for the Prince Theatre, complete with vintage logo used on the t-shirts below.

To purchase a t-shirt, please send me an email at: sea.theater(at)hotmail.com

Either way, stay tuned for new posts about old theaters in Thailand and Myanmar. You can also follow my Instagram account at Phil Jablon or The Southeast Asia Movie Theater Project Facebook page.

PRINT SALE - "Forgotten in Plain Sight"

As the month of August winds down, so does my latest exhibition of movie theater photography. "Forgotten in Plain Sight: Photographs of Southeast Asia's Disappearing Movie Theaters," spent most of the month covering the walls of The Philadelphia Mausoleum of Contemporary Art. PhilaMOCA for short. The set consists of 20 images, featuring a variety of theater views from Thailand and Myanmar, a good portion of which have never before been exhibited. 

This also marked the first major exhibition of my work in the United States, and possibly the best one to date in terms of content and presentation.

For those interested in owning a piece of this exhibition, individual images are on sale for $90 each (plus shipping), unframed. Each image is part of a signed and numbered limited run of 100, printed at an 18X24 size on high-quality archival photo paper with a matte finish. As usual, each sale will go towards supporting the Southeast Asia Movie theater Project, enabling me to continue documenting the region's disappearing stand-alone movie theaters. 

To get your photograph just click the PayPal "Buy Now" button below. Unfortunately, only 10 of the 20 images are indicated in the PayPal button, but if you are interested in one that's not listed, or you want one printed in a different size, please email me directly at sea.theater@hotmail.com

Happy viewing.

Photos

Tea at the Aung Theit Hti Final Stage Mingala Thiri Light Beam The Bang Khae Rama The Fa Siam The Pak Nam Rama The Sein Aung Win The Win Oscar's Prostitutes Siam Diamond in Post Life

Tea at the Aung Theit Hti 

Myaungmya, Irrawaddy Region, Myanmar

Final Stage 

 The Sri Burapha Thaeater

 Chanthanburi, Thailand

Mingala Thiri Light Beam 

The Mingala Thiri Cinema 

 Dawei, Thanintharyi Region, Myanmar

The Bang Khae Rama 

 Bangkok, Thailand

The Fa Siam Theater 

 Suphanburi, Thailand

The Pak Nam Rama 

 Pak Nam, Samut Prakarn, Thailand

The Sein Aung Win Cinema 

 Kyaukme, Shan State, Myanmar

The Serm Suk Theater 

Kumpawaphi, Udon Thani Province, Thailand

The Siri Phanom Rama 

Phanom Sarakam, Chachoengsao Province, Thailand

The Win Cinema 

Toungoo, Bago Region, Myanmar

The Thwin at night 

 Yangon, Myanmar

The Trang Rama 

Trang, Thailand

The Peth Rama 

 Loei, Thailand

Front row kids 

The Aung Thiri Cinema 

Lashio, Shan State, Myanmar

Balcony View

The Tun Thiri Cinema

Pyay, Bago Region, Myanmar

Thamada Auditorium View

The Thamada Cinema

Yangon, Myanmar

Oscar's Prostitutes

The Oscar Theater

Bangkok, Thailand

Siam Diamond in Post Life

The Siam Diamond Theater

Sri Samrong, Sukhothai Province, Thailand 

Rama Ticket Taker

The Nonkorn Non Rama

Nonthaburi, Thailand

Vintage Thai movie theater tickets up for grabs

I'm selling off a big pile of my treasured vintage movie tickets to raise funds for a Burma theater survey. This special sale consists of a set of six original theater tickets that I've salvaged from abandoned Thai movie theaters over the past several years. 

Each set is $20, every cent of which - minus the shipping costs of the tickets - will go towards a research and photography trip across Burma next month. While I am without institutional sponsorship, sales like these are the only practical way to finance such an expedition. Sorry that I'm spending more time fund raising than actually creating content, but that will all change soon. 

Coming soon: Burma Theater Survey - Phase III

I hate to sound alarmist, but the truth is that those darling stand-alone movie theaters over in Burma are being wiped out fast! Just a few years ago, during my first two surveys of the then "hermit nation," there were well over 100 still in operation nationwide. Since then many dozens have closed and still more torn down. As the former hermit nation comes out of its shell to the call of free market capitalism, those once-iconic theaters will fall faster than a house of cards in a hurricane. Unfortunate as that is, it's simply the way things work.

Yesterday I put in an order for the publication of my final 15 photo portfolios of stand-alone movie theaters in Thailand. Two are already reserved, leaving 13 to put on the market. At $300 dollars a piece, these are not cheap items. Believe me I know. I earn the majority of my income from moving furniture and $300 is a good bit more than I generally earn in a day.

That said, all the proceeds from portfolio sales will be invested in a final research trip to Burma to make a one-of-a-kind photographic record of a threatened architectural type in their final days. This research trip, moreover, will help ensure that at least a few are given a fighting chance at being preserved. Regrettably, sales of this portfolio will not be going to directly fund the purchase or renovation of any of those old Burmese theaters. Nor will I be doing any hands on renovations myself. But make no mistake, each and every time that a photo of these buildings is publicized, every set of eyes that gets a look them and is made aware of their quiet existence, builds value in them and makes preservation all the more feasible. That's what I aim to do.

So much of Burma's ageing architecture is in need of protection. Stand-alone movie theaters all the more so, as they tend to be the most at-risk structures once sweeping redevelopment plans and capital inflow descend upon a country. This project is dedicated to helping ensure the survival of at least one stand-alone theater in every major metropolitan area of Southeast Asia. The ones in Burma are in dire need.

So get yourself a great piece of art in the form of an extremely limited edition "The Movie Theaters of Thailand" photo portfolio, and contribute to the preservation of Burma's historic stand-alones at the same time. It's a win-win for all.

See further details and payment options below.

"The Movie Theaters of Thailand"  photo portfolio is limited to 35 handcrafted sets which are available for $300US each (shipping and handling included). Every set comes in a handmade box with a hinged flip top. The front cover features gold leaf inlaid text, along with the Southeast Asia Movie Theater Project banner photo. Inside are 20 images (that works out to less than $15 dollars per image) printed on A4 size handmade Mulberry paper, and produced right here in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Each set is signed and numbered to ensure authenticity.

To speak of mass entertainment during the 20th century is to speak of film, and the place to see films was in stand-alone movie theaters. This fact was no different in Thailand, Burma or any place on Earth that embraced cinema. Throughout the 20th century, Thai entrepreneurs constructed over 700 of these leisure palaces nationwide. Today there are less than 10 still in operation.

All 20 images laid out on a table

This sleek portfolio set can be neatly inserted among over-sized books on a shelf, or laid flat on a coffee table. Otherwise, decorate a room by individually framing your favorite theater images.

                   

Some of these photos have been featured in exhibitions across Asia. Others have never before been seen.

Keep in mind that only 35 of these portfolios will ever be printed, making them extremely collectible. As of January 1st, 2016, only 13 copies remain. If you purchase one of these final sets you will also be reserving yourself a pre-paid for copy of the forth coming "Movie Theaters of Thailand" coffee table book, to be published by River Books at the end of this year. But most significantly,  your purchase will go directly to support further documentation of the stand-alone movie theaters in Burma, where these important buildings are desperately in need of some exposure.

Many thanks for your support,

Phil Jablon

Two day portfolio sale

For two days and two days only I am listing two of my remaining five Movie Theaters of Thailand photo portfolio at the reduced price of $200 dollars (including shipping). That's 33% off the regular price.

That means for $200 you'll be mailed a hand crafted photo portfolio consisting of 20 original photographs of stand-alone movie theaters in Thailand, printed on handmade mulberry paper.

All sales will go directly towards future research to document the rapidly disappearing stand-alone movie theaters of Southeast Asia.

Only TWO sets will be offered at this special price, so act fast. Sale ends September 16th, 2016.

The Indra Theater - Nakorn Sri Thammarat, Thailand

Last week, at the invitation of a professor of philosophy from one of Bangkok's finest universities, I gave a talk about Thai movie theaters - past and present - and the nature of my work. It was a relaxed, informal talk, given to an active little class of about 25 students, all of whom politely endured a lecture in woefully bad Thai.

Before the students arrived, however, the professor and myself sat around talking movies, movie theaters and all things related. One bit of the conversation stood out in particular, so while its still fresh in my mind let me circumvent the actual order of my research to bring you this interesting missive from the annals of Thai movie theater history.

The Indra Theater, long abandoned in the heart of Nakorn Sri Thammarat

Said professor hails from Nakorn Sri Thammarat, southern Thailand's 2nd biggest city. A city which, in decades passed, surged with energy thanks to a quintet of massive stand-alone movie theaters huddled together in the heart of town.

The professor's invitation for me to speak to his class was inspired by a photo I posted of the Indra Theater - one of the downtown cinema halls in which he often took sanctuary as a youngster. Predictably, the Indra was the main focus of our talk.

From the many Hollywood classics the professor recalled watching at the Indra, our conversation evolved into one about the erstwhile profession and forgotten talents of the live movie dubber, once a staple of the Thai cinema industry. These live voice actors would entertain movie-audiences in real-time, lending Thai language to foreign films and dialogue to Thai films shot on 16 millimeter (which lacked an in-film audio track).

By many accounts, the dubber was the most important component of the Thai cinema spectacle. A good one could be more of a crowd pleaser than the actual movie stars in the film.

The key to being a good dubber, I've been told, the most important trick of the trade, was the ability to improvise the on the spot, tweaking the characters, or even the plot to make it slightly more relevant to the local audience. For instance, if the dubber was from the same town or region that the theater was in, he or she might speak in the local dialect, or even adapt characters in the film to represent local personalities.

The Indra Theater and its streetscape.

No story of a dubber at work has ever been more insightful than the one that the professor related to me last week before the start of his class.

The year was 1973 - a particularly volatile year in Thai history, best remembered for large scale student protests against a corrupt, dictatorial regime and the violent military crackdown which ended them. Into this context of heightened political tension, with the flames of "people's power" burning hot, Sidney Lumet's iconic police drama "Serpico," starring the wildly popular Al Paccino in the title roll, opened at the Indra Theater.

Thai version of the Serpico poster

Serpico, for those who aren't familiar, is the Hollywood account of real life New York cop Frank Serpico's political lynching at the hands of the New York City police department. In the film, as in real life, the upstanding bobby refused to take kickbacks from local criminal organizations, the going trend among many in the NYPD of the times. By shunning the practice and serving as a whistle blower against police corruption in general, Frank Serpico drew the wrath of the entire New York police bureaucracy. He almost got himself killed in the process.

According to the professor, Nakorn Sri Thammarat in the early 1970's had a similar problem with its own police force. Many officers had a acquired a base reputation for corruption, extortion and other forms of constabulary graft. Local grievances against the police were high on account of it. So when Serpico made its premiere at the Indra Theater, sympathetic crowds showed up in droves.

The ticket booth and lobby of the Indra Theater, now littered with debris.

Among Nakorn Sri Thammarat's more famous dubbers of the time was a man named Sirichai. According to the professor, Sirichai was a master at rousing a crowd. Whether the movie was foreign or Thai, for example, Sirichai always reserved his southern Thai accent for sidekicks and supporting characters, much to the amusement of the southern Thai audience.

But Sirichai's greatest talent was his deft ability to tweak a film's plot and characters to sync with contemporary Thai issues. He had a penchant, moreover, for using his role as dubber to address the day's top political scandals, both at the national and local level. And corrupt politicians were his number one target.

With Serpico, making political satire for Sirichai was like shooting fish in a barrel. It turned out to be his voice-over Magnum Opus.

Refuge from rain in the Indra's abandoned lobby

The crooked cops in the film were all given names corresponding to Nakorn Sri Thammarat's most notorious lawmen. The crowd, well aware of who was who among the city's police ne'er-do-wells, reacted with cheers and hysterical laughter at the associations the dubber made. The on-screen cops and the cops on the streets of Nakorn Sri Thammarat, if only for a few hours, became one and the same in eyes and ears of Indra Theater patrons. From the rank and file right up to the top brass, no corrupt member of the local police department was spared Sirichai's adaptive lampoonery. The crowd went wild, apparently, and because the film's initial dubbing session was recorded on tape for use in later screenings, multiple crowds were exposed to Sirichai's crusades. 

The Indra auditorium. Ghostly voices of Sirichai's Serpico can almost be heard echoing throughout. 

Not everybody got a kick out Sirichai's antics, however. As the professor explained, the dubber's satirical Serpico adaptation got him slapped with a libel lawsuit, which he ended up being found guilty of. 

But as so often happens in these sorts of cases, the lawsuit martyred him, making him into a local hero and even more popular among movie-goers in Nakorn Sri Thammarat.  

The sign for the Indra Theater, stashed away inside the ticket booth.

Sirichai's career as a movie dubber came to a close with the decline of Nakorn Sri Thammarat's stand-alone movie theaters, as it did for all of Thailand's once illustrious voice actors. But for this local personality, the experience he had gained from working a crowd of movie-goers was parlayed, ironically, into a career in politics.

Sadly, he died prematurely, before his political career had a chance to bloom.

Today, it's hard to imagine that the now-abandoned Indra Theater played host to this fascinating episode in Thai cultural history. Sirichai's Serpico.

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Traveling to these theaters and digging up this history is very fulfilling, but it ain't cheap. You can to play a role in their continued documentation get a great little memento at the same time. Here's how:

For a small donation of $6, you'll be mailed these two original movie tickets from Nakorn Sri Thammarat, Thailand. The white and blue ticket was a VIP ticket to from the Wirote Rama Theater, which is still standing the heart of downtown. The yellow ticket was for open air movie screenings held throughout the province.  

Supplies are limited, as no theaters in Thailand print such tickets any longer, so get yourself these unique movie theater keepsakes while supplies last. Just click the Paypal button below:

Ticket for the Wirote Rama Theater

Ticket for outdoor movie screenings in Nakorn Sri Thammarat