Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Bangkok Interlude

Please pardon the slow pace of postings this month. I don't think I've spent more than a few days in a row at the home base, leaving me little opportunity to sort through photos and write posts about old movie theaters and their environs.

Bangkok has been my home for the past few days, where I've lurked around the crusty sois of Saphan Kwai and Sutthisan, wandered through the streets of Chinatown and marveled at the still-operating palaces of Siam Square. This trip has been good, yielding a number of new finds supplemented by a few valuable interviews.

From the 22nd to the 27th I'll be back here again, hoping to follow some more leads and generally enjoy the big city.

Stay tuned!

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

The Sri Pathana Theater - Pa Sak Noi village, Chiang Saen, Chiang Rai, Thailand

The Sri Pathana Theater's history is intimately entwined with war, development and the coming of modernity to this corner of the country. However, in order to outline the relationships between these events it will help to turn back the clock to the the late 1960's and early 70's, before the Sri Pathana Theater was even standing.

Throughout much of the 1960's and 70's there were major wars raging in Thailand's neighbors, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam. As a result of these wars agricultural production dropped severely in those countries. Bullets, bombs and land mines make it a bit difficult for farmers to till their fields and plant their crops. In Thailand, however, there were only minor skirmishes in some remote jungle areas, leaving most of the Thai agricultural sector to benefit economically from the losses incurred across the border. Thai-grown rice shot up in value as Lao consumers just across the border looked towards their war-free neighbor for the staple food item.

A corrugated tin wall shrouds most of the facade of the old Sri Pathana Theater, obscuring what was once the lone theater serving the surrounding 5 villages in rural Chiang Rai.

Now lets zero in on the tiny village of Pa Sak Noi, in Chiang Rai province, Thailand. During the war years, Pa Sak Noi was a typical northern Thai farming community. Electricity hadn't yet reached that part of Chiang Rai and motor vehicles were a rarity. Only a few families in the village had a car or truck of any kind, and those who did used them almost exclusively for economic purposes. Pa Sak Noi had one family that owned a truck, which they used to transport the unthreshed rice of local farmers to the nearest rice mill for processing. Thanks to the high export value of Thai rice - a result of the nearby wars - this service proved to be quite lucrative and the family made a tidy sum during the war years.

Soon after the war ended in 1975 rice prices began to level off in Thailand. As agricultural production resumed in Laos, diplomatic relations between the two countries were cut and exports to Laos from Thailand ceased, Thai rice was in less demand. Meanwhile, that enterprising family from Pa Sak Noi, enriched during the war years through their rice transport business, rolled their profits into the entertainment industry. The Sri Pathana Theater was born.

Looking at the facade, into the lobby. The greenish box in the corner was the ticket booth.

Chaweewa, who along with her husband opened the Sri Pathana Theater in 1978, recalled how crowds of locals would throng the theater to partake in this novel form of entertainment. Entire families from all the nearby villages would file in to marvel at the newly arrived technology, the cinema. During the first year of its operation, the Sri Pathana was powered by a diesel generator, as electricity hadn't made it to Pa Sak Noi by then, making the theater the only electrified building in the area.

A poster for the Thai film "Chui Chai" still lingers in the lobby.

Pictures of the king and queen hang at the top of the lobby, above the door. The staircase led to balcony-level seating, the projection booth and the sound room, where live dubbers, sent by the film distribution company, would perform the voices for foreign movies.

Most of this theater was made of wood, which poses a contradiction to something I was told a few weeks ago. A former theater owner in Nong Khai (see post "Thai movie theater history 101" from 4/21/09 for more details) explained that the Thai government outlawed wooden theaters in the late 1960's, citing them as fire hazards. The Sri Pathana, however, was built in 1978. Chaweewa, the owner, said she had never heard of that law. A trip to the local university library should put an end to this issue.

Through the door and into the auditorium!

The Sri Pathana was small, but they would manage to squeeze as many as 700 viewers in at one time for more popular movies. The entry fee was one baht in the early years of the theater.

The lower walls of the auditorium were made of brick and cement, while the upper part was wood. Notice the strings hanging down from the widows so that they could be opened for ventilation.

Fan vent and the remains of old posters inside the auditorium.

Poster for "Bruce Li in New Guinea," glued to the wall.

Old wall fan, out of its natural habitat.

One year after the Sri Pathana Theater opened, Pa Sak Noi and the rest of Chiang Rai province got electricity, ushering in full "modernity" to this idyllic region of the country. In the late 1980's, as locals began buying TV's, the Sri Pathana lost its appeal and business fell off drastically. Chaweewa and her husband kept it open as long as they could, but it just wasn't worth the costs. It closed down in 1989.

This is Chaweewa pictured above. Her memory of past events and her kindness in sharing them made for one of the most insightful experiences I've had since I started searching for old theaters. Her stories helped shed new light on a number of issues which I otherwise would never have picked up on. Chaweewa and her husband truly were agents of change, to use the anthropological term.

The Sri Pathana was also the first movie theater I have ever seen anywhere in the world that is in a village. Not a city, not a small town, but a rural, largely agricultural village.

(Sri Pathana loosely translates to "grand development," but if somebody can give a more accurate translation it would be welcomed)

Monday, May 11, 2009

The Dok Kham Tai Rama - Dok Kham Tai, Payao, Thailand

From cinema to karaoke hall, the Dok Kham Tai Rama Theater is testament to the evolution of entertainment in this corner of the world. While the operational costs for theaters like this outweigh the profits, there is money to be made in Karaoke - a more interactive and stimulating past-time than film for the average person of today.

A twenty minute bus ride from Payao city will bring you to the suburb of Dok Kham Tai; an unassuming little town, which culminates aesthetically in a tree lined canal that snakes through its center. Sound interesting? Well it's really not. I couldn't think of a more perfect example of how our love for conveniences (the home entertainment center) detracts from our cities and towns (no more movie theater). For Dok Kham Tai, it's the difference between having and not having a cultural venue. These are the things that add spice to life.

The lifeless auditorium, in the past one of Dok Kham Tai's most important social spaces, now all but forgotten by a culture-less town.

This was the first time I've encountered a projector still in the theater. Generally they are sold off along with the sound system and seats. The label on the back says Peerless, but apparently the Peerless company, based in Melrose Park, Illinois in the USA, only manufactures projector mounts and related equipment, not projectors themselves. Whatever make and model the projector is, it's at least 20 years old, as that's when the theater closed down.

I'm guessing that this projector is actually much older than 20 years. If you look in the opening you can see that it required a carbon rod for its light source. I'm no expert, but I don't think that style of projection is used much anymore.

The Dok Kham Tai Rama Theater: it opened in 1974 and closed in 1989.

Sunday, May 10, 2009

"The Golden City Theater" - Payao, Thailand

Monumental is a suitable word to describe the Meuang Thong Rama Theater. It may not be the most ornate, or beautiful movie theater in this part of the world, but it's shear size and the presence it has over its surroundings made it a memorabe place to visit.



Despite its grandiosity, the Meuang Thong Rama only had 800 seats, significantly fewer than some of the smaller theaters in Thailand, though it was ostensibly built with a mind towards the comfort of the theater patron, not how many of them could be squeezed in.

The Meuang Thong Rama Theater was completed and in opened in 1975. Soon thereafter, Payao city's only other theater - the Payao Rama (see two posts prior for more details) - closed its doors, yielding to the modern comforts provided by the Meaung Thong Rama.


Storage room on the second level.

A solidly built example of 1970's contemporary design, the Meuang Thong Rama served as Payao's only operational theater for nearly 30 years. It is now used as a storage depot for plastic recyclables.


Cinematic remnants in a storage room: a reel of film.

The Meuang Thong Rama Theater is now owned by Kongsak Taranisorn (pictured above), but it was the brainchild of Kongsak's father, who designed and built it with the intentions of creating the best theater that money could buy. His dream was realized and for many years the Meuang Thong Rama was the province's premiere movie theater. Its large size, however, eventually contributed to its demise, as electricity costs for such a megalith began to exceed revenue, and audiences opted for the convenience of home viewing over the big screen.

But being the proud inheritor of the Meuang Thong Rama, Kongsak still has hope for a revival of the family gem, albeit with slim prospects. "The people of Payao," he explained, "are a hard sell. They wouldn't support the occasional independent film, or any other kind of alternative performing arts show, which would give the theater some life. I know there are those who would support it simply because of its 'retro' style. If [the Meuang Thong Rama] were in Bangkok, or even Chiang Mai, I'm sure that an audience could be found."

"It's a shame that a great old theater like this can't survive," he added. "I'd love to put it to better use."

The Meuang Thong Rama Theater: a movie theater fortress of yesteryear hoping for new life.

(Meuang Thong translates to Golden City)

Monday, May 4, 2009

Signs: a free postcard post

I'm very pleased to see that there are a few people out there who take an interest in these old movie theaters from this corner of the world. As a token of my appreciation I've printed up a small pile of postcards depicting some of these theaters. You can get one for free! All you have to do is scroll down to the bottom of this post and vote for your favorite movie theater sign by typing your selection in the comment box. As supplies are limited, only the first 50 voters will get one.

E-mail your mailing address to sea.theater@hotmail.com.

Offer expires June 5th, 2009.

Choose between the rustic Pua Rama Theater....

...the stately Mansruang Theater...

...the simple yet handsome Wiang Mai...

...the trilingual Viang Samay...

...the faded, but still charming Thepbanterng Theater...

...the dazzling Peth Siam...

...the perennially classic Laochaleun..

...the subtly attractive Peth Rama...

..the very green Hong Rama, from Sokhothai, Thailand...

...the worn down, yet imposing Vista Theater...

...the colossus of Udon, the Amporn...

...the exotic Bua Savan, from Vientiane, Laos...

...the very 1950's Chalermradna Theater, another Udon giant...

...the always inspiring Amarin...

...the plain but nice Rasopsuk Ram Theater...


and the distinctively angled Payao Rama.

Vote today and get your free postcard while supplies last.

The Payao Rama Theater AKA Thana Payao Cineplex - Payao, Thailand

Cinema has not been completely eliminated from the list of things to do in Payao city. Thanks to the Thana company, the Payao Rama Theater, a city staple for at least 40 years - 50 by one account - continues to show movies. But that wasn't always the case. In the mid-70's a second, even larger theater opened up in town and put the Payao Rama out of business. It remained vacant until the second theater itself closed down 6 years ago. Then the Thana company, seeing a niche that needed filling, bought the Payao Rama, rehabbed it and gave it a second life as the Thana Cineplax.

Built at a 45 degree angle from the street, the old Payao Rama is the lone place to watch a film on teh big screen in the entire province of Payao at the moment.

Original signage pivoted at a 45 degree angle from the rest of the building to face the street.

Thana has done a great job with this old theater. The interior was tastefully remodeled in the last five years, complete with comfy reclining seats, a new sound system and top-notch projection. The lobby looks like it's likewise had a makeover.

Posters for upcoming films

View of the lobby just before showtime.

The manager was hesitant to let me take any photos of the Thana Cineplex, as is company policy. It took an explanation as to my intentions and letting her see some photos of other theaters I'd photographed before she changed her tune, and only then if I shot from afar. Under no condition, however, was I allowed to bring the camera into the theater during showtime. I left it at the ticket booth.

Night shot of lobby

The lobby after the movie let out and all the customers had gone home. I like this photo a lot.

Another reason I love these old theaters: modern multiplexes in Thailand are seldom ever built in the middle of the town. On the occasion that they are, like a number of them in Bangkok and one in Chiang Mai, they are atop shopping malls and generally designed with the intention of having viewers drive into a parking garage to get there. In other words, the moviegoer doesn't have to touch the streets to get to the theater. Here, on the other hand, after watching the beautifully shot gore fest of Meat Grinder (a Pranakorn Films production, which is a subsidiary of the Thana company) I left the theater and was immediately deposited in the center of a deserted city. The walk back to my hotel, past shuttered shops and restaurants, through the empty streets of Payao, gave me the opportunity to digest what I had just seen unburdened by the responsibilities of driving. As contrived as it may seem, that solitary stroll, amplified by the lingering effects of cinema, was both exhilarating and sobering at the same time.

For the 60 baht price of a ticket I was given a theater going experience that I'll never forget.