The Sri Siam Theater - Pra Pradaeng district, Samut Prakan, Thailand

Adventurous film lovers in the Bangkok area, looking for a new twist to their movie-watching experience, might want to take a jaunt over to Pra Pradaeng. There they will find one of metro Bangkok's last double feature theaters, shielded from view behind a wall of low-rise shop houses on Suksawat Road. 

Pass below the street-side marquee through the backdoor of civilization. Make a right at the big red arrow that says "Sri Siam." In the core of this quintessential working-class Bangkok suburb escapism is still affordable, without the physical addiction.

Follow the arrow pointing down a perpendicular soi and you have arrived at the Sri Siam Theater.

No less weathered than the neighborhood in which it stands, the Sri Siam

Double feature theaters, once a common site throughout metro Bangkok, have dwindled to a small handful. Numbering close to 100 at their peak, there are a grand total of 5 still operating in Bangkok and its suburbs. That number jumps up to about 12 if you include the ones that have devolved into dens for the sexually deviant. 

Historically, double feature theaters serve working-class enclaves. They are the better-value counterpart to the first-class theaters that once peppered central Bangkok with architectural splendor. At the latter, both domestic and foreign films would make their Thai premieres, usually unaccompanied by a second feature. Foreign films from, say, Hollywood or Europe, would be presented in their original language soundtrack - undubbed, but with Thai subtitles.  

Once through their first run at the downtown movie palaces, films would then circulate to the double feature theaters, where they would be combined in a two-for-one deal with a second feature. Foreign films would get Thai dubbing, making them digestible for local audiences.

The Sri Siam, now devoid of free-standing signage above the cornice.

A one-time sojourn might make for biased judgement, but intuition foretells the end for this lingering stand-alone. The air was musty, damp from neglected leaks. A sneaking sort of decay could be felt springing up from the seat stuffing. When the lights went on between features, a flop house was revealed. A half dozen dozing laborers slumped in their seats. 

To save on cleaning costs, entire sections of seating were cordoned off with rope; an ocean of seats conceded to emptiness.

Because of the stay-all-day policy there was a constant rotation of customers, but never more than a few at a time. An impression less of entertainment and leisure than of refuge from the heat prevailed.

The wainscoted lobby is one of the most endearing features of the Sri Siam.

       

Ticket taker with a friend and pet dog.

 

40 baht ticket price

A floral floor

The Sri Siam is part of a shrinking family-run chain of double feature theaters across the Bangkok suburbs. The Sri Krung and Nakorn Non Rama, the latter of which still does brisk business, are also owned by the same family. They once operated the Ngamwongwan Theater as well, but that closed down about 2 years ago.

All of the theaters run by this particular family have the same kitschy, wainscoted lobbies, which embody a cheap cathouse kind of elegance that will either make you feel right at home, or mildly nauseous, depending on your tenor.

For a bit of perspective, this is the scene directly across from Sri Siam. Workers disassemble batteries for salvageable parts.

In the end, the Sri Siam Theater is a memento from a different era, live and in the flesh. That it has not gone completely to the dogs is a miracle, or maybe just the result of attentive owners, who, even in the face of falling profits, ensure that it is first and foremost a cinema hall. 

My hat goes off to them. Here's to the last of the double feature theaters.

The Pu Jao Theater - Samut Prakan, Thailand

The street-side signage is a dead giveaway. "Pu Jao Market at Sam Rong," it reads, vestiges of a marquee loosely discernible below. On the other side stands a cinema mausoleum. Entombed is the fanfare of movie-watchers from years gone by, desolate though it may otherwise appear.

Street-side signage along the southern reaches of Sukhumvit Rd. There is no mention of a the theater anymore.

The Pu Jao Theater stands as a concrete shell, stripped of absolutely everything that isn't embedded in it. Vendors at the Pu Jao fresh market, which is still in operation, rue the days when the Pu Jao was the life-blood of the neighborhood; a magnet for leisurists and guarantor of profits for hawkers.

A woman grilling hot dogs beside the Pu Jao claimed that in the 1980's and 90's, it was the premier theater of Five Star Productions - one of Thailand's most prolific movie studios. Films starring the studio's prized male/female duo, Santisuk Promsiri and Jintara Sukapat, held their premiers at the Pu Jao. Regular capacity crowds spilled over into the surrounding businesses.

Then, in much the same manner as nearly all Thailand's stand-alone theaters, it died sometime in the early aughts.

Nature's reclamation 

Bare bones auditorium

Desolation in the upper lobby

Seldom do I come across a vintage picture of a theater I've documented in its death throws. They're not so easy to track down. Which makes the above photo a rare treat. It shows a tiny bit of the Pu Jao Theater days before its grand opening.

In the photo, Saman Watcharasirioj, a technician who works for the Apex chain, along with an assistant, set up the audio system for an outdoor movie screening in front of the Pu Jao. This must have been some sort of promotional event prior to the theater's opening. The Pu Jao was apparently owned by Apex.

The banner above the marquee says, "A first-class theater, Pu Jao at Sam Rong. Grand Opening March 26th, 1985."

The Pu Jao Theater is now a first-class relic.

(Vintage photo courtesy of Wax Wara, son of Saman Watcharasiriroj) 

The State Theater - Pra Pradaeng district, Samut Prakan, Thailand

Heading south along Sukhumvit Road, between Bangkok's southern outskirts and Samut Prakan town, lies a stretch of weather beaten buildings, tattooed greenish-black from years of auto-exhaust and tropical molds. Lots of Bangkok has this exact look: a building stock of concrete shop houses, built in the 1960's, 70's and 80's, before developers realized that profits, like customer-attracting air-conditioning, could be more efficiently controlled in enclosed shopping malls.

In exurb settings like Pra Phradaeng district, Samut Prakan, such ageing building types have become - for all intents and purposes - working slums. Shop fronts so occupied hold businesses catering to low-wage service workers commuting to and from the Bangkok grind. Cheap eats, cell phone dealers and convenience stores reign supreme. Factories and warehouses fill in the gaps. On occasion, the rarefied sight of undeveloped paddy field or festering bog - reminders of a bucolic past not far removed.

Remnants of other fading pasts can be found clinging desperately to life in this area, as well. Enter Sukhumvit Soi 78 - "Soi State," as its known to locals and in official street signage. The soi is named for the stand-alone theater that sits in its heart.

"State" @ Soi 78

The entrance gate to Soi State, looking well worn after years of neglect. Besides announcing the theater, the sign also advertises a market, the full name of which is unreadable due to missing letters. In years past, hand painted movie posters would have adorned the frame beneath the signage.

Anchoring a large commercial/residential development, the State Theater is the quintessential Thai theater of the 1970's. By comparison, it's like a Thai rendition of a strip mall, minus accommodation for cars. In fact, the latter was the death knell of such developments.

As the private car increased in popularity through the 1980's and 90's, these commercial/residential plazas lost their appeal. With no formal parking lots, drivers found them inconvenient, precipitating the rise of the shopping mall-multiplex, with the all-in-one ease of built-in parking.

Convenience is the enemy of many good things.

Now well into its decline, the State stays afloat via a lone daily screening of pornography. Much of Soi State, for that matter, has a link to the sex industry in one way or another. A slew of store fronts are occupied by brothels, or their slightly less conspicuous cousins, the massage parlor.

(For an interesting report on the transformation of Soi State into a red light district, click here)

Expanse of lobby

Seediness has not always been a State trademark. Mr. Choom - the current manager and employee for over 30 years - recalled the golden years at the State, when capacity crowds filled the theater day in and day out. Throngs of movie-goers provided the foot traffic which sustained the surrounding businesses in thriving Soi State. But those days are long gone.

A second State employee I spoke to registered as familiar. Where I had met him before I couldn't immediately pin point, but a quick memory scan drew a match. He was the manager at the now-demolished Asia Rama, in Bangkok's Prakhanong neighborhood. When I saw him last, almost three years ago, he was sitting proudly behind the ticket window of that massive double-feature theater, brusquely fielding my questions about his place of work.

His reassignment to the State, I learned, came in the wake of the Asia Rama's closure and subsequent fall. Both theaters were owned by the same man, part of a once-sizable network of theaters stretching across Bangkok and its suburbs. The Asia Rama Network, it was called, named after the flagship theater where a high-rise condominium is currently being built.

Others in the Asia Rama Network included the Washington, London, Hawaii and New York theaters, to name the few I learned of.

Meanwhile, my transferred theater operator friend, now aware of our past interaction, had a glint of sadness in his eyes. With his former place of employment now just a memory, and his current one in its final stages, he holds the unenviable distinction of being witness to an empire's collapse. The gradual degradation of a movie theater is a pathetic site. To be part of it for so many years can only be depressing. An inescapable feeling of pending obsolescence.

A tell-tale sign of the theater's current incarnation as a hook-up spot: out-dated posters hang on the walls.

Yup, it's that kind of place.

Quintessentially 1970's chandelier, movie poster in background.

Imitation marble wall paneling surrounds the ticket window.

The concessionaire and her friend have a chat in the lobby.

The concave screen of the State Theater, curtains narrowed to fit LCD projection. This once-cutting edge auditorium has seen better days.

Signage

As it stands, the State is beleaguered. The entire development is well into its decline, one stage or so before abandonment. The employees even admitted as much.

All the properties withing Soi State are owned by one man. He is apparently holding out until the Sky Train is extended to Soi State's gates, at which point he will redevelop the land. In ten years time, it's likely that the "State Tower Condos" will have supplanted the State Theater and all the seedy deals taking place in its shadow.

I'm glad to have seen it before its demise.