Clock racing

The above photo was taken in central Phitsanulok city, in an crowded market area, where the streets are lined with shops and food vendors. I asked a lady selling grilled bananas if she knew of any old theaters in town.

"Nope, don't know of any," she said. Then, nodding towards the dirt lot across the street, she added, "but had you been here a month ago you would have seen a real old one right there."

PSA for The Amarin Theater -- Loei, Thailand

With political tensions on the rise once again in Thailand's capital, wouldn't it be nice for all you politically unaffiliated Bangkokians to escape the potential carnage and take a trip up to the provinces? If you concur, why not hop on a bus to the idyllic province of Loei.

The Loei countryside is brimming with natural wonders, like Phu Kradeung and Phu Reua mountains -- just aching for your concrete-weary feet to traipse along their slopes. Or venture down to the charmingly rustic riverside town of Chiang Khan, where the mighty Mekong first reconnects with the Thai border after a long journey through the Lao hinterlands.

If it's entertainment you seek, look no further than Loei City, where you can take in a flick at the beautiful Amarin Theater, Loei's last and only movie theater. For just 60 baht you can slump down comfortably in the cushy plushness of the Amarin's recently upgraded seats and release you mind with a bit of projected bedazzlement.

The Amarin Theater, in the heart of Loei City.

Relax contemplatively in the well-maintained lobby...

...where stylish 1970's design will bring a twinkle to your eye.

Enjoy some snacks from the concession stand.

Red and Yellow got you down? Don't take sides, take it easy.

Back the blue -- The Amarin Theater: proudly serving the people of Loei since 1977.

(Amarin tranlates to the god "Indra")

The Peth Rama - Loei, Thailand

View from the mouth of the court

View from about half way in

My theater count is rising rapidly and some of the names are starting to double up. This was the second Peth Rama Theater I came across in just a few days, the other one being in Thakaek, Laos, which I made a post for a little over a week ago.

Once again, the fact that I found this one was the result of a conversation with an older local. Everybody else I asked only knew of the still functioning Amarin Theater (stay tuned!). Despite the fact it's pretty much smack in the middle of Loei City,
--> the Peth Rama has been all but forgotten by most of the locals. It's possible that the collective amnesia stems from the fact that the Peth Rama is situated deep inside a crusty old court, about 80 meters back from Eua-Ari Road (see above photos), well out of view from most passers by. Not to mention it's been closed as a theater for 15 years or so. Either way, here it is, in all its faded glory, now a warehouse used to store products destined for Bangkok.

Facade and signage. I really love those old free standing signs with cut-out letters.

Warehouse employee and her daughter (on the floor), in front of the old ticket window and a poster case. Tickets were 20 baht at the time the Peth Rama closed in the early 1990's.

Bangkok bound products clutter the lobby. Check out the old, folding wooden doors!

Ticket window

Incidently, I was told that the original owner of the Peth Rama was the older sibling of the owner of the Amarin Theater, the last functioning theater in town. They must have had a bit of a cinematic sibling rivalry.

Nobody could give me the exact age of the Peth Rama, but I got a few approximations of about 40 years.

The Chalermrad Theater - Udonthani, Thailand

From the ticket seller on the bus, to my hotel receptionist, street vendors, Sam Lor drivers and countless shop keepers throughout the city, everybody I asked, old and young, told me that there were only two remaining theaters in Udonthani -- The Vista and The Amporn. I had resigned myself to that figure and after tracking them down, felt satisfied with the take. But just as I was ending my quest in Udon for the day, a chance encounter with a friendly senior and lifelong khon Udon alerted me to the still standing Chalermrad Theater.


Yes, there it was, shining like the "Celebrated Jewel" that its name translates to (probably family name of the original owner, though), the Chalermrad Theater was the third of three colossal old movie theaters still standing in Udon. But my enthusiasm after finding it was extinguished with a flap of the tongue from the one and only jerk I've encountered on these missions. The man at the desk in the photo below didn't notice me when I snapped this poor-quality picture of the old lobby from outside. So I entered and asked as politely as possible, "excuse me sir, but I noticed that your Beer Chang distribution center is housed in a beautiful old movie theater. Would you mind if I took a few photos of the old lobby? It's for the public record."

Two scornful eyes stared back at me: "No you may not. Leave now!"

My vision narrowed and my pulse quickened as his words backhanded me across the face. Somehow though, I kept my poise, forced a smile, turned and slowly walked away. It was a reminder that A), there are a lot of assholes in this world and B), not everybody is going to be sympathetic to this project. Rejection is all part of the game.

The lobby of The Chalermradna Theater, now filled with cheap beer and sour people

Old signage with Thai, Roman and Chinese characters

The good experiences I've had tracking down old cinemas out-weigh the bad ones a hundred to one. Pictured above is Mr. Willapong, owner of a pet fish aquarium, and possessor of the most prolific memory in Udonthani, as far as I'm concerned. He was the one who was able to point out that the Chalermrad had not been knocked down. He also imparted valuable information about the 3 or 4 other theaters in Udon that are no longer with us. Many thanks to Mr. Willapong, a swell guy.

(The Chalermrad Theater closed down just 6 or 7 years ago. I was never able to find out when it opened, but I'm guessing it was in the 1950's, judging by the architecture).

The Vista Theater - Udonthani, Thailand

Not quite as dramatic a place as the Amporn (prior post), theVista Theater nonetheless dominates the city scape from its corner perch across from the open space of Tung Sri Meuang Park.

The Vista was the brain child of a local medical doctor, Dr. Sukum, who from what I gathered had a sort of celebrity status in the Udon of yesteryear. In its hay day, the Vista was an all out entertainment complex, complete with a bowling alley on the second floor. It must have been a real hoot.


But as with all the great theaters, the Vista lingers on listlessly as a shell of its former self, withering away year in and year out, through pounding rain and blazing sun, until the cold hand of economy decides it fate. With any luck, that cold hand will be full of cash and attached to a warm heart.

Entrance to the lobby.

Wasn't able to get an exact DOB, but I think it was sometime in the late 50's early 60's. Don't quote me on that.

The trash strewn lobby still contains a sign with movie show times. Notice that the last show of the day was at 24:00 -- a mid-night special.

Take a good look, the Vista is wonderful!

20-plus years have passed since its been vacant, I was told.

The Amporn -- Udonthani, Thailand

Easily the most physically and architecturally dramatic of the old theaters I've seen, the Amporn Theater stands dignified, in the heart of downtown Udonthani, Thailand.

There is little doubt that this place was at one time a world class movie theater.

Its design calls to mind a crown, and likely done with much deliberation and intent. Those letters are works of art by themselves.

My knowledge of Buddhist mythology is nil, but I'm pretty sure that the image on the cornice piece is part of Buddhist, or maybe Thai lore.

What was once the lobby is now a gutted shell, save for the staircase, rising up three stories.

The green tarp around the frontal region hints at something construction (or destruction) related. It would really be sad to see this place torn down.

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get much data on the Amporn Theater. The vendors and shop keepers in the vicinity didn't seem too interested in talking to me about it. The only thing anybody could tell me with any certainty was that it closed down 10 years ago and that there is now a shoe shop in some retail space around the side. With little solid information to go on, I'll have to resort to speculation.

I speculate that the Amporn was built in the late 60's or early 70's. That's when Udonthani was awash with dollars from the US air-force base on the outskirts of town. From what I understand, the base at Udon was the largest Vietnam War era (or American War, depending on perspective) military installation in Thailand. Many a bombing missions originated at the Udonthani base, and soldiers stationed there spent their down time taking in movies and the like in town. My guess is that the Amporn was, in a beautiful twist of irony, a by-product of the war.

Again, this is all speculative information, so if anybody has any solid details or memories about the Amporn Theater, your comments are welcomed. Such a regal building must have a rich history.

(On a side note, Amporn translates to "sky," or "heavens.")

"Hunting, we shall go"

I'll be back at the home base shortly. Currently in Nan province, northern Thailand in search of the remnants of cinemadom. Really, there are only remnants here, but interesting all the same. Tomorrow I should be Payao-bound if all goes as planned.